So, what are your thoughts on BURGUNDY?!?

Back in 2008, I wrote the article below about the phenomenal 2005 vintage from Burgundy. It is likely that most wines from that vintage have been consumed or scooped up by collectors to age to proper drinking condition. Thankfully, the 2009 vintage from Burgundy is just trickling into the market and is already proving to be another blockbuster vintage. (And I might add that the 2006 reds and whites I have consumed recently have been optimal.) I can not stress enough to everyone who is interested in wine.......become a student of Burgundy. I am!

2005 Vintage a great reason to try wines from Burgundy
The wine region of Burgundy in eastern France is downright confusing.  I say that as a wine professional, connoisseur and continuous student of Burgundian wines of over a decade.  The more you know, the more you realize there is more you do not know.  That being said…unless you are planning to be a professional sommelier, do not let worrying about “learning” Burgundy stop you from trying it.  Imagine if you had to know all of the technical specifics of a hot fudge sundae before you got to dig in and enjoy it. Or if you put off buying Häagen-Dazs ice cream or Ghirardelli chocolate to make that sundae, because you didn’t know how to pronounce the names?  Besides, you can not learn Burgundy, or any wine for that matter, by reading a book or reviewing magazine ratings.  You need to sample. And there is no better time than the present.
Some Burgundy loyalists will be very upset with me for encouraging you to try the wines right now.  That is because the 2005 vintage is so spectacular, that they do not want to share it with anyone who would not appreciate it.  But, I disagree.  One of the benefits of a tremendous vintage is that even the entry-level wines are good.  Or even great!  Surely, if you are trying something new, it helps to know that you do not need to break the bank to do so. Still, a bottle of “starter” or “regional” Burgundy from the ’05 vintage will run you upwards of $20.00-$30.00 depending on the vineyards and the producers.  The cost is due partly to the strength of the Euro, and partly supply and demand.  Burgundy wines are understandably becoming more popular, but the region is by far the smallest major wine-growing region in the world. French wine laws limit the yield of grapes per acre, which maintains the boutique status of the wines.
If you are completely unfamiliar with Burgundy, the good news is that you surely know of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which are the predominate grape varieties.    The bad news is that you may have already formed a strong opinion on what you think of these grapes.  Whether you think you love them or not, you need to try Burgundy with an open mind.  The French style of Chardonnay allows the fruit in the grape to shine through, without being overpowered by the oak.   The Pinot Noirs possess an elegance that is incomparable to any other Pinot Noir in the world.  They offer the perfect balance of fruit and tannin. It is that delicate balance of velvet, and a certain mouthwatering freshness, that produce wines that are perfect to match with food. 
You will often hear that these wines represent a true reflection of terroir, which is a conceptual French term, with no real English equivalent.  The Burgundy Wine Company in New York City states it best. “Terroir encompasses all aspects of a vines growing environment, including soil, subsoil, altitude, position on a slope, sunlight hours and quality, rainfall, temperature, wind exposure and so on.”  Because these characteristics are unique, and quite consistent year after year, Burgundian wines are a true expression of where they came from.  Exploring the nuances of terroir, and the balance between power and subtlety, are what makes these wines so exciting.
Once you become a true connoisseur of Burgundy, you will want to collect Premier Cru wines, often abbreviated 1er Cru, which accounts for 11%.  These wines generally offer more aging potential and have greater complexity.  The top classification, and a mere 1% are Grand Cru Wines.  These require some aging to express their full power, and are capable of aging for 20 years or more.
My suggestion is to start with a regional wine, such as a Bourgogne Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, or a district wine, such as Hautes Côtes de Beaune.  This combined classification accounts for approximately 65% of the Burgundies produced.  The next level, Village wines, make up about 23% and come from vineyards within the boundaries of a single village, such as Volnay, Gevrey-Chambertin and Chassagne-Montrachet.  Many examples from both of these classifications are approachable and easily accessible.  Try to find a 2005, but the 2006s that are starting to arrive in the country are also showing great promise.

It all began in ...... AUSTRIA?!?

I was asked to write my first article in early 2008. Although I was fortunate enough to have the qualifications, I still was not sure I should attempt writing. I, myself, am not an avid reader. I learn by smelling, sipping and savoring. However, once I accepted the fact that I was writing to share my experiences (rather than writing a textbook), I was eager to begin. Now that I have published dozens of articles in newspapers and magazines, I take you back to where it all began.

Although I am known for being a fan (or rather fanatic) of French Wines, I remember being genuinely excited about discovering the wines of Austria and chose to share that enthusiasm as the topic of my first article.  A couple of people confessed to me that they thought I surely was writing about Australian wine and perhaps it was a typo. Nope. I started with AUSTRIA?!?

GrüVe, as it has affectionately been coined, has grown in popularity tremendously and exports to the U.S. have increased every year since 2008 when I started writing. In fact, this grape varietal is now being grown in parts of the U.S., New Zealand and you guessed it, Australia. ha!

Last night, I had a glass of Winzerhof Sigl Federspiel and it took me back to that moment. Coincidentally, the vintage was 2008. Wow, what a lovely wine! This Grüner has a gorgeous viscosity that covers your mouth with flavors of soft, green apple and then finishes with lively acidity. A perfect match for my grilled wild salmon with mango chutney. I speculated in 2008 that the price of these wines would most likely increase, but I am thrilled that I was able to purchase this bottle for around $15.00. I will surely seek out this producer when doing placements for Épernay in the spring of 2012.


From May 2008 as published in the Inquirer & Mirror:

I must pay homage to the Pearl Restaurant, which is where I fell in love last year. Fall in love that is, with Grüner Veltliner.  I know, Grüner WHAT?  I had tasted it before at Industry Wine Tastings, and from time to time when a Salesman brought a bottle by.  But, I typically ignored it because I was overly focused on the Usual Suspects, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.  Then one evening, on a rare, late-night appearance after completing a hellacious week of work, I found myself at their bar wanting something “different.”  Ever since, I have been a taster and connoisseur of Austrian wines and encourage you to do the same. 

The Austrian Wine Industry suffered an enormous blow in 1985 when it was discovered that several winemakers were adding diethylene glycol, a potentially poisonous alcohol, to their late-harvest dessert wines.  It was an attempt to add sweetness and body to the wines, so they were able to demand a higher price. Unfortunately, the entire country paid the price as the press turned it into a world-wide scandal. I can only hope that my “Madonna Wanna-Be” Attire from 1985 is not what I am judged by now.  It has been 23 years, and it is time to move on! Austrian wine laws, completely overhauled as a direct consequence of this scandal, are now some of the most stringent in the world. (I can’t say the same for my wardrobe.) 

A long-time friend and local wine connoisseur, Lucy Lau, visited Austrian wineries this winter and she commented on how beautiful the country is, and how generous the winemakers are. “What I truly appreciated (about the wineries in Austria) was that they really were such family affairs.  Upon visiting, “mom” would be cooking our meals.  Even major producers such as Hillinger, Bauer and Steininger, were still very intimate when they talked about the love of their wine and country” recalled Lau. She added, “The regions (Burgenland, Wagram, Wachau) I visited blended Old-World surroundings with modern, contemporary characteristics, which I found very refreshing.”  Clearly, the Austrians are excited about the resurgence of their product. Lucy and I had a talk one evening about how “Grüner” is so easy.  Lovely honeysuckle nose, light peach, apple and grapefruit on the palate, yet a clean finish.  It is light enough to enjoy as an aperitif, yet has enough body to hold up to lighter summer foods and is certainly a great match to cool down spicy cuisine!

Although Grüner Veltliner accounts for about 40% of Austria’s vineyards, and over 70% of the country’s wine production is white wine, there is a red grape variety I also encourage you to try.  Blaufränkisch.  I blind-tasted one recently and said to myself, “Well, this is fuller-bodied than a Pinot Noir, but not as full as a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon.” It had such a nice combination of cherry, earth and spice but without the overwhelming tannic qualities of a fuller-bodied wine. It is surely the perfect wine to join you beside your grill, even if you are preparing a simple burger.  But how can you splurge on such a nice wine with a burger?  Well, because the Bläufrankisch I love only tastes expensive!

I inquired with one of my distributors about Austria’s wine values and I learned that the Austrian government, in an attempt to revive the wine market, is subsidizing wineries.  I am uncertain whether this practice is industry-wide, but I will say that you are getting your money’s worth when drinking these divine varieties! Lucy Lau added “The government is also heavily marketing tourism in Austria and collaborating with wineries and nearby hotels to create enticing itineraries.” It must be working! 2007 was the most successful export year in history for Austria’s wines, so there is no telling how long the prices will stay reasonable.  The value of the Euro against the dollar has greatly influenced imports to the U.S., so it is becoming more and more difficult to find European values.  There are many value-priced, yet finely balanced Austrian wines available for under $20/bottle, with additional selections of single-vineyard category that produce a more complex palate, that are around $30-$40.  As always, Cheers and Enjoy!