I have been told that there is more rosé sold on Nantucket, than the rest of Massachusetts combined. I could not be happier to hear that the residents and visitors of our island “get it.” Those who know me, know that I am a serious supporter, perhaps fanatic, of properly made rosé.
But, regardless of how dry, crisp and food-friendly a rosé is, a serious connoisseur would not put it into a fine-wine category. That is until such a connoisseur is introduced to Chateau D’Esclans.
Chateau D’Esclans is a winery in Provence, France, purchased by Sacha Lichine. Sacha is the son of Bordeaux legend, Alexis Lichine. His ties with the Bordeaux region continue with his employment of winemaker, Patrick Leon, who spent over two decades at Château Mouton Rothschild.
Within five minutes of meeting the charismatic Frenchman, he said “There are already enough great red wines in the world. I want to make great rosé!” I am not the only one who feels like he has accomplished just that. As we were sampling the wines, his importer, Paul Chevalier, told me that while Sacha chose to come to Nantucket, he could have been in Las Vegas. Chateau D’Esclans was the only rosé producer invited by Wine Spectator Magazine to attend their Grand Tour of the 200 Best Wines in the World. British Airways serves the wines on all of its first-class flights. And Miami has gone wild over these wines, as they are featured at The Delano and The Fountainbleu, two of South Beach’s finest destinations.
One thing I have always found peculiar is how many comments I’ve heard about the price of rosé. “I can not believe Domaine Ott is over $40 now.” And yet, that same person does not flinch spending twice that amount on a coveted Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon. Although I am a retailer who is always in search of a well-made value, I was like a kid in a candy store anticipating the tasting of a rosé that fetches over $100/bottle.
All four of the rosés produced by Chateau D’Esclans get their richness from a base of Grenache and Rolle, but Sacha proclaimed “We added a touch of Syrah to the Whispering Angel this vintage to distinguish its color from the others.” I simply love this wine. It is fermented in stainless-steel tanks and is everything I know a Provence rosé to be: Fresh, crisp and fruity, yet with a dry, easy finish. Next we moved on to the namesake Chateau D’Eslcans Rosé which is partially fermented in oak barrels and has a much richer finish than the first. It is a wine that awaits a perfectly executed tuna niçoise.
Then, we got serious. Why can’t you use terms like 80-year-old vines and 500-liter Burgundy oak barrels when discussing rose? You can. The Les Clans carries its weight in gold with a 91pt rating(WS), but drinks like a soft cloud. And the crown jewel with the hefty price-tag, Garrus of which only a few barrels are produced drank like a fine Puligny Montrachet. In fact, in competitive blind tastings out of black glass, professional sommeliers are consistently confusing this wine with a fine, white Burgundy. Both of these upper-tier rosés have a rich concentration of berry and plum but finish with a buttery softness that demonstrates that Sacha and his winemaker have indeed taken rosé to the next level.
I am optimistic that over time, the rest of our state, as well as the others in our country will see the beauty in these pink wines. Eric Asimov of The New York Times is one of many authors bringing National attention to the many examples of exquisite rosé wines, not only from Provence, France, but from all over the world.
