Is there TOO MUCH written about wine?

Am I between a rock & a hard place? Yes, I am. I have been fortunate enough to have published dozens of newspaper and magazine articles over the past several years. I was nervous writing, proofreading, editing and rewriting every one of them. Luckily, positive feedback (and a paycheck....being honest here) made it all worthwhile. I have shared some of them here and again, it feels wonderful to have people appreciate them.

But, now what? Do I really write a BLOG about my ‘musings’ in the wine world? No. I am not going to leave my glass of wine every evening to go write a few sentences about what I thought about it and whether or not it was a good pairing with my scrambled tofu. Wine has been written about to death.

Ahhhh, especially at this joyous time of year.....

How many times can you hear about which wine goes best with Turkey? And if you really don’t know that the answer is: Whatever wine you love best! then you can always google it. You do not need to subscribe to eight different wine magazines to find a good suggestion. When I was asked to write an article about wine for the Holidays, I cringed. I ended up writing about Winemakers that I am thankful for. It was a beautiful tribute to those who simply make my life better by making incredible wine.

The rant continues on what I don’t like:

-Review after review after review of how much cherry-berry, toasted-tobacco, buttery-vanilla is in a wine. Yes, it is helpful to know certain qualities about a wine to make sure it suits your preference. For example, noting if a wine is oaky and rich(big-bodied) or is it fruity & crisp(light-bodied). But the length (no pun intended) wine reviewers go to......seamless tiers of creamy coffee? really?!? So, if you are told about this ahead of time, are you obliged to partake in casual conversation about how the wine likens your favorite morning beverage? Sometimes I think a reviewer’s description has turned off a consumer. “No, I don’t like peaches.” Yet, they end up sharing that they love a California (warm climate, therefore resulting in super ripe) Sauvignon Blanc. (Hint to the irony: They love peach flavors in a wine!)

What I DO like: I am not here just to complain!

-I LOVE it when people (average consumers) ask questions and get honest answers. Wine Spectator’s Dear Dr. Vinny is just fabulous. If you are afraid to ask a question in person, you can create a name (isn’t the name of the street you grew up on suggested?) and ask virtually. (Note: Please do not ever be afraid to ask ME in person. I LOVE questions!)

-Hard News. It is important to know that a hail storm has damaged the grapes of a region. It is important to know if a winery is sold/acquired by another. It is important to know if a Winemaker started his/her own new winery. Comparing verticals of a collector’s wine was surely fun for those drinking it! Not so fun reading about it.

I write because I LOVE wine and I LOVE to educate. I can only hope you'll pick up a point or two. I believe in an interactive process to learning about wine. You can read all you want. You can take courses, read textbooks, read every article and/or blog in existence. However, you are not going to truly learn about wine unless you experience it first-hand and simply enjoy it for what it is. Some liquid in your glass intended to give you pleasure!

Get out of your "Red Wine Rut" (Say that 10 times fast!)

When you decide that you would like to enjoy a glass of red wine, which grape immediately comes to mind? My bet is that a fair share of you would say Cabernet Sauvignon.  However, there are plenty of consumers who prefer Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz or Zinfandel.  And let’s not forget Pinot Noir, whose popularity skyrocketed after the release of the film Sideways.

Whatever your preference, it is just as easy to get stuck in a rut.  I, myself, have a clear preference for Pinot Noir, specifically grown in the Burgundy region of France. I have a list of favorite producers, favorite designated vineyards, favorite vintages, etc. Branching out to me may be enjoying a Pinot Noir from Williamette Valley in Oregon.  But, I need to practice what I preach and be more adventurous.

Luckily, as a wine buyer, I get to sample a lot.  If Zinfandel is not my favorite wine to drink, it is still my duty to taste as many as possible and find examples that are well made and will make consumers happy.  There are also opportunities for me to sample lesser-known grapes, from lesser-known regions.  It is especially a magical thing when I find something that tastes much more expensive than it is!

If you are going to take my advice and try a red wine that is new to you, you certainly don’t want to break the bank doing so.  Here are just a few suggestions of wines that are not only good values, but a perfect match for fall cuisine:

Malbec from Argentina:  I know you have heard of Malbec.  It has been around forever.  Originally used as one of the blending grapes in a classic, French Bordeaux, it is now receiving critical acclaim on its own being grown and bottled in Argentina, predominantly in Mendoza, but also in Salta and Patagonia. Argentinean Malbecs range from medium to full-bodied, with rich, lush, jammy fruit and a nice hint of spicy chocolate.  World-class winemakers from all over the world are either serving as consultants to existing wineries, or creating their own labels.  Paul Hobbs has done both.

Zweigelt from Austria: I can only hope that by now you have tried at least one of the great, white Grûner Veltiners from Austria, perfect for summer sipping. Now is a great time to try this red.  Like Malbec, it offers a very nice spice, however is much softer and lighter in body style.  I can most closely compare it to a Beaujolais Villages, yet more concentrated in flavor and finishes with lively acidity, due to the country’s cool climate.  It definitely is the epitome of trying something off the beaten path.  I personally prefer it with a slight chill.

Petite Sirah from California: If you would like to try something lesser-known, yet grown here in the great U.S.A., try a Petite Sirah.  As many as sixty wineries are growing and producing this varietal, which is different from Syrah, yet clearly an off-spring somewhere down the line. It has long been used to blend with Zinfandel to add layers of complexity, color and tannin.  One of my favorite examples is Green Truck (same producers as Red Truck, but farmed organically) which blends in about 20% Merlot. Winemaker, John Allbaugh comments: “Lush flavors of cassis, dark cherries & plums with a hint of pepper, and brown spices add just the right horsepower."  And unmistakably delicious, I must add.

Have some fun with blends as well. Ask for a reasonably priced Super-Tuscan from Italy (Drunken Goose by L’oca Cuica) or a Grenache-based blend from France’s Rhone Valley (Black Sheep GSM). You will be delightfully surprised that they offer great value!

So, what are your thoughts on BURGUNDY?!?

Back in 2008, I wrote the article below about the phenomenal 2005 vintage from Burgundy. It is likely that most wines from that vintage have been consumed or scooped up by collectors to age to proper drinking condition. Thankfully, the 2009 vintage from Burgundy is just trickling into the market and is already proving to be another blockbuster vintage. (And I might add that the 2006 reds and whites I have consumed recently have been optimal.) I can not stress enough to everyone who is interested in wine.......become a student of Burgundy. I am!

2005 Vintage a great reason to try wines from Burgundy
The wine region of Burgundy in eastern France is downright confusing.  I say that as a wine professional, connoisseur and continuous student of Burgundian wines of over a decade.  The more you know, the more you realize there is more you do not know.  That being said…unless you are planning to be a professional sommelier, do not let worrying about “learning” Burgundy stop you from trying it.  Imagine if you had to know all of the technical specifics of a hot fudge sundae before you got to dig in and enjoy it. Or if you put off buying Häagen-Dazs ice cream or Ghirardelli chocolate to make that sundae, because you didn’t know how to pronounce the names?  Besides, you can not learn Burgundy, or any wine for that matter, by reading a book or reviewing magazine ratings.  You need to sample. And there is no better time than the present.
Some Burgundy loyalists will be very upset with me for encouraging you to try the wines right now.  That is because the 2005 vintage is so spectacular, that they do not want to share it with anyone who would not appreciate it.  But, I disagree.  One of the benefits of a tremendous vintage is that even the entry-level wines are good.  Or even great!  Surely, if you are trying something new, it helps to know that you do not need to break the bank to do so. Still, a bottle of “starter” or “regional” Burgundy from the ’05 vintage will run you upwards of $20.00-$30.00 depending on the vineyards and the producers.  The cost is due partly to the strength of the Euro, and partly supply and demand.  Burgundy wines are understandably becoming more popular, but the region is by far the smallest major wine-growing region in the world. French wine laws limit the yield of grapes per acre, which maintains the boutique status of the wines.
If you are completely unfamiliar with Burgundy, the good news is that you surely know of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which are the predominate grape varieties.    The bad news is that you may have already formed a strong opinion on what you think of these grapes.  Whether you think you love them or not, you need to try Burgundy with an open mind.  The French style of Chardonnay allows the fruit in the grape to shine through, without being overpowered by the oak.   The Pinot Noirs possess an elegance that is incomparable to any other Pinot Noir in the world.  They offer the perfect balance of fruit and tannin. It is that delicate balance of velvet, and a certain mouthwatering freshness, that produce wines that are perfect to match with food. 
You will often hear that these wines represent a true reflection of terroir, which is a conceptual French term, with no real English equivalent.  The Burgundy Wine Company in New York City states it best. “Terroir encompasses all aspects of a vines growing environment, including soil, subsoil, altitude, position on a slope, sunlight hours and quality, rainfall, temperature, wind exposure and so on.”  Because these characteristics are unique, and quite consistent year after year, Burgundian wines are a true expression of where they came from.  Exploring the nuances of terroir, and the balance between power and subtlety, are what makes these wines so exciting.
Once you become a true connoisseur of Burgundy, you will want to collect Premier Cru wines, often abbreviated 1er Cru, which accounts for 11%.  These wines generally offer more aging potential and have greater complexity.  The top classification, and a mere 1% are Grand Cru Wines.  These require some aging to express their full power, and are capable of aging for 20 years or more.
My suggestion is to start with a regional wine, such as a Bourgogne Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, or a district wine, such as Hautes Côtes de Beaune.  This combined classification accounts for approximately 65% of the Burgundies produced.  The next level, Village wines, make up about 23% and come from vineyards within the boundaries of a single village, such as Volnay, Gevrey-Chambertin and Chassagne-Montrachet.  Many examples from both of these classifications are approachable and easily accessible.  Try to find a 2005, but the 2006s that are starting to arrive in the country are also showing great promise.

It all began in ...... AUSTRIA?!?

I was asked to write my first article in early 2008. Although I was fortunate enough to have the qualifications, I still was not sure I should attempt writing. I, myself, am not an avid reader. I learn by smelling, sipping and savoring. However, once I accepted the fact that I was writing to share my experiences (rather than writing a textbook), I was eager to begin. Now that I have published dozens of articles in newspapers and magazines, I take you back to where it all began.

Although I am known for being a fan (or rather fanatic) of French Wines, I remember being genuinely excited about discovering the wines of Austria and chose to share that enthusiasm as the topic of my first article.  A couple of people confessed to me that they thought I surely was writing about Australian wine and perhaps it was a typo. Nope. I started with AUSTRIA?!?

GrüVe, as it has affectionately been coined, has grown in popularity tremendously and exports to the U.S. have increased every year since 2008 when I started writing. In fact, this grape varietal is now being grown in parts of the U.S., New Zealand and you guessed it, Australia. ha!

Last night, I had a glass of Winzerhof Sigl Federspiel and it took me back to that moment. Coincidentally, the vintage was 2008. Wow, what a lovely wine! This Grüner has a gorgeous viscosity that covers your mouth with flavors of soft, green apple and then finishes with lively acidity. A perfect match for my grilled wild salmon with mango chutney. I speculated in 2008 that the price of these wines would most likely increase, but I am thrilled that I was able to purchase this bottle for around $15.00. I will surely seek out this producer when doing placements for Épernay in the spring of 2012.


From May 2008 as published in the Inquirer & Mirror:

I must pay homage to the Pearl Restaurant, which is where I fell in love last year. Fall in love that is, with Grüner Veltliner.  I know, Grüner WHAT?  I had tasted it before at Industry Wine Tastings, and from time to time when a Salesman brought a bottle by.  But, I typically ignored it because I was overly focused on the Usual Suspects, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.  Then one evening, on a rare, late-night appearance after completing a hellacious week of work, I found myself at their bar wanting something “different.”  Ever since, I have been a taster and connoisseur of Austrian wines and encourage you to do the same. 

The Austrian Wine Industry suffered an enormous blow in 1985 when it was discovered that several winemakers were adding diethylene glycol, a potentially poisonous alcohol, to their late-harvest dessert wines.  It was an attempt to add sweetness and body to the wines, so they were able to demand a higher price. Unfortunately, the entire country paid the price as the press turned it into a world-wide scandal. I can only hope that my “Madonna Wanna-Be” Attire from 1985 is not what I am judged by now.  It has been 23 years, and it is time to move on! Austrian wine laws, completely overhauled as a direct consequence of this scandal, are now some of the most stringent in the world. (I can’t say the same for my wardrobe.) 

A long-time friend and local wine connoisseur, Lucy Lau, visited Austrian wineries this winter and she commented on how beautiful the country is, and how generous the winemakers are. “What I truly appreciated (about the wineries in Austria) was that they really were such family affairs.  Upon visiting, “mom” would be cooking our meals.  Even major producers such as Hillinger, Bauer and Steininger, were still very intimate when they talked about the love of their wine and country” recalled Lau. She added, “The regions (Burgenland, Wagram, Wachau) I visited blended Old-World surroundings with modern, contemporary characteristics, which I found very refreshing.”  Clearly, the Austrians are excited about the resurgence of their product. Lucy and I had a talk one evening about how “Grüner” is so easy.  Lovely honeysuckle nose, light peach, apple and grapefruit on the palate, yet a clean finish.  It is light enough to enjoy as an aperitif, yet has enough body to hold up to lighter summer foods and is certainly a great match to cool down spicy cuisine!

Although Grüner Veltliner accounts for about 40% of Austria’s vineyards, and over 70% of the country’s wine production is white wine, there is a red grape variety I also encourage you to try.  Blaufränkisch.  I blind-tasted one recently and said to myself, “Well, this is fuller-bodied than a Pinot Noir, but not as full as a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon.” It had such a nice combination of cherry, earth and spice but without the overwhelming tannic qualities of a fuller-bodied wine. It is surely the perfect wine to join you beside your grill, even if you are preparing a simple burger.  But how can you splurge on such a nice wine with a burger?  Well, because the Bläufrankisch I love only tastes expensive!

I inquired with one of my distributors about Austria’s wine values and I learned that the Austrian government, in an attempt to revive the wine market, is subsidizing wineries.  I am uncertain whether this practice is industry-wide, but I will say that you are getting your money’s worth when drinking these divine varieties! Lucy Lau added “The government is also heavily marketing tourism in Austria and collaborating with wineries and nearby hotels to create enticing itineraries.” It must be working! 2007 was the most successful export year in history for Austria’s wines, so there is no telling how long the prices will stay reasonable.  The value of the Euro against the dollar has greatly influenced imports to the U.S., so it is becoming more and more difficult to find European values.  There are many value-priced, yet finely balanced Austrian wines available for under $20/bottle, with additional selections of single-vineyard category that produce a more complex palate, that are around $30-$40.  As always, Cheers and Enjoy!

A Simple Guide to Restaurant Wine Lists

This is an article I wrote for Nantucket Today. Since this issue is no longer on the stands for sale, I am sharing it with you here:

A friend of yours suggests a restaurant and drops the line: “They have a great wine list!”

Is that because they have a large selection? Is that because they have gentler pricing?

I personally think a Wine List is great if it meets three criteria. One is that it should reflect the cuisine the restaurant features. If there is a fusion of different cooking styles and ethnicities, like most successful restaurants today, then there should that same variety in the Wine List. Second is that there should be some depth and variety of vintage. It demonstrates that the owner cares enough to invest back into their wine program and makes for a better overall experience. And finally, that the information is correct. Those who know that 2005 was a phenomenal year for French Burgundy will be extremely disappointed if the wine that comes to the table is actually 2008. If these criteria are met and the wines are served at a proper temperature, in proper glassware by a knowledgeable staff, they earn the price-tag. Otherwise, a hefty mark-up is not justified.

Here are my suggestions for navigating a Restaurant Wine List, no matter the size or variety:

Do your homework. Although not always possible, you probably make it a habit to view a restaurant’s menu prior to dining there. You want to know the options and the price-range. You should do the same exact thing with the wine list. I strongly warn you not to pre-choose a wine, as it could be out-of-stock or no longer on the list, or simply prevent you from trying a better choice once you have decided on your meal. Look to see if there are quite a few options in your price range. Are there a few reputable producers? Did the list win any awards? You will also get to familiarize yourself with the layout.

Take your time. The whole point of ordering a bottle of wine at a restaurant is so that it compliments your entire dining experience, so do not rush. This is particularly true if you are fine-dining and have a large list to look at. I suggest ordering a glass of Champagne or Sparkling Wine from the bar to start. It takes the pressure off you to immediately make a decision. Although many equate Champagne with a special occasion, it is a wine that is extremely food-friendly and pairs well with raw bar, salads, crab cakes and other popular choices for starting off a meal. It also will not ruin your palate, but rather refresh it, if you move on to a contrasting wine.

Use the Sommelier. If you are a wine connoisseur, you can narrow your choice down to a few and then throw in the restaurant professional’s opinion to help you make your final decision. He or She will immediately know the style and price-point you are drawn to and should be able to give specific information about which one is drinking better or a better value or a better match to your food choices. My favorite is when I get the reply “If you were considering those, let me point out this one you may have overlooked that I know you will love.” Sold.

Use the Sommelier some more. If you are more of a novice, and do not recognize any of your favorites on the list, state what you normally like to drink. If you tell the Sommelier you like Rodney Strong Chardonnay, for example, it speaks volumes about the fuller, richer, toasty and buttery style of white wine you prefer. Therefore, a crisp, fruity Torrontes from Argentina is not going to be suggested to you. You should always be up-front about what price-range you are comfortable with, which can be communicated simply by pointing to some of the prices on the list and stating “I am looking in this range.” Remember, they often work on commission.

Be Open-Minded. I am a firm believer that you should drink what you like. That being said, you may be missing out on plenty that you would like because of fear of the unknown. While most New World wines are named by the grape, most Old World wines are named by the region. Many do not know that Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are Sauvignon Blanc. Yet, Pouilly-Fuissé and Meursault are Chardonnay. It is confusing! And while you know what Pinot Noir and Merlot are, you may not be familiar with other grapes. Just come right out and ask “What is Sangiovese like?” A great way to experiment a new grape or style of wine is to order from the By-The-Glass list or consider ordering a half-bottle if the restaurant offers them.

Let it breathe. When the Server brings the bottle of wine to your table and offers you a taste, you are ensuring that there is no fault in the wine, such as having cork taint. Once you have approved that the wine is sound, it is poured. The wine will begin to open up and improve within minutes. It should continue to evolve over the course of your meal, so do not judge too quickly. If the restaurant only offers newer vintages, and you have your heart set on a big wine such as a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, ask for it to be decanted. Old wines are decanted to remove sediment, but a young red wine can greatly benefit by being ‘punched’ into a decanter to accelerate the softening of the tannins by exposing it to more air.

Sip. Savor. Wine is meant to be enjoyed, but I often have to hold off a waiter from filling my glass too high or too often. Massachusetts now has a Doggy-Bag Law that allows you to bring home your bottle of wine if you are unable to finish it, which may be the case if you took me up on that glass of bubbly to start!