It all began in ...... AUSTRIA?!?

I was asked to write my first article in early 2008. Although I was fortunate enough to have the qualifications, I still was not sure I should attempt writing. I, myself, am not an avid reader. I learn by smelling, sipping and savoring. However, once I accepted the fact that I was writing to share my experiences (rather than writing a textbook), I was eager to begin. Now that I have published dozens of articles in newspapers and magazines, I take you back to where it all began.

Although I am known for being a fan (or rather fanatic) of French Wines, I remember being genuinely excited about discovering the wines of Austria and chose to share that enthusiasm as the topic of my first article.  A couple of people confessed to me that they thought I surely was writing about Australian wine and perhaps it was a typo. Nope. I started with AUSTRIA?!?

GrüVe, as it has affectionately been coined, has grown in popularity tremendously and exports to the U.S. have increased every year since 2008 when I started writing. In fact, this grape varietal is now being grown in parts of the U.S., New Zealand and you guessed it, Australia. ha!

Last night, I had a glass of Winzerhof Sigl Federspiel and it took me back to that moment. Coincidentally, the vintage was 2008. Wow, what a lovely wine! This Grüner has a gorgeous viscosity that covers your mouth with flavors of soft, green apple and then finishes with lively acidity. A perfect match for my grilled wild salmon with mango chutney. I speculated in 2008 that the price of these wines would most likely increase, but I am thrilled that I was able to purchase this bottle for around $15.00. I will surely seek out this producer when doing placements for Épernay in the spring of 2012.


From May 2008 as published in the Inquirer & Mirror:

I must pay homage to the Pearl Restaurant, which is where I fell in love last year. Fall in love that is, with Grüner Veltliner.  I know, Grüner WHAT?  I had tasted it before at Industry Wine Tastings, and from time to time when a Salesman brought a bottle by.  But, I typically ignored it because I was overly focused on the Usual Suspects, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.  Then one evening, on a rare, late-night appearance after completing a hellacious week of work, I found myself at their bar wanting something “different.”  Ever since, I have been a taster and connoisseur of Austrian wines and encourage you to do the same. 

The Austrian Wine Industry suffered an enormous blow in 1985 when it was discovered that several winemakers were adding diethylene glycol, a potentially poisonous alcohol, to their late-harvest dessert wines.  It was an attempt to add sweetness and body to the wines, so they were able to demand a higher price. Unfortunately, the entire country paid the price as the press turned it into a world-wide scandal. I can only hope that my “Madonna Wanna-Be” Attire from 1985 is not what I am judged by now.  It has been 23 years, and it is time to move on! Austrian wine laws, completely overhauled as a direct consequence of this scandal, are now some of the most stringent in the world. (I can’t say the same for my wardrobe.) 

A long-time friend and local wine connoisseur, Lucy Lau, visited Austrian wineries this winter and she commented on how beautiful the country is, and how generous the winemakers are. “What I truly appreciated (about the wineries in Austria) was that they really were such family affairs.  Upon visiting, “mom” would be cooking our meals.  Even major producers such as Hillinger, Bauer and Steininger, were still very intimate when they talked about the love of their wine and country” recalled Lau. She added, “The regions (Burgenland, Wagram, Wachau) I visited blended Old-World surroundings with modern, contemporary characteristics, which I found very refreshing.”  Clearly, the Austrians are excited about the resurgence of their product. Lucy and I had a talk one evening about how “Grüner” is so easy.  Lovely honeysuckle nose, light peach, apple and grapefruit on the palate, yet a clean finish.  It is light enough to enjoy as an aperitif, yet has enough body to hold up to lighter summer foods and is certainly a great match to cool down spicy cuisine!

Although Grüner Veltliner accounts for about 40% of Austria’s vineyards, and over 70% of the country’s wine production is white wine, there is a red grape variety I also encourage you to try.  Blaufränkisch.  I blind-tasted one recently and said to myself, “Well, this is fuller-bodied than a Pinot Noir, but not as full as a Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon.” It had such a nice combination of cherry, earth and spice but without the overwhelming tannic qualities of a fuller-bodied wine. It is surely the perfect wine to join you beside your grill, even if you are preparing a simple burger.  But how can you splurge on such a nice wine with a burger?  Well, because the Bläufrankisch I love only tastes expensive!

I inquired with one of my distributors about Austria’s wine values and I learned that the Austrian government, in an attempt to revive the wine market, is subsidizing wineries.  I am uncertain whether this practice is industry-wide, but I will say that you are getting your money’s worth when drinking these divine varieties! Lucy Lau added “The government is also heavily marketing tourism in Austria and collaborating with wineries and nearby hotels to create enticing itineraries.” It must be working! 2007 was the most successful export year in history for Austria’s wines, so there is no telling how long the prices will stay reasonable.  The value of the Euro against the dollar has greatly influenced imports to the U.S., so it is becoming more and more difficult to find European values.  There are many value-priced, yet finely balanced Austrian wines available for under $20/bottle, with additional selections of single-vineyard category that produce a more complex palate, that are around $30-$40.  As always, Cheers and Enjoy!