Back in 2008, I wrote the article below about the phenomenal 2005 vintage from Burgundy. It is likely that most wines from that vintage have been consumed or scooped up by collectors to age to proper drinking condition. Thankfully, the 2009 vintage from Burgundy is just trickling into the market and is already proving to be another blockbuster vintage. (And I might add that the 2006 reds and whites I have consumed recently have been optimal.) I can not stress enough to everyone who is interested in wine.......become a student of Burgundy. I am!
The wine region of Burgundy in eastern France is downright confusing. I say that as a wine professional, connoisseur and continuous student of Burgundian wines of over a decade. The more you know, the more you realize there is more you do not know. That being said…unless you are planning to be a professional sommelier, do not let worrying about “learning” Burgundy stop you from trying it. Imagine if you had to know all of the technical specifics of a hot fudge sundae before you got to dig in and enjoy it. Or if you put off buying Häagen-Dazs ice cream or Ghirardelli chocolate to make that sundae, because you didn’t know how to pronounce the names? Besides, you can not learn Burgundy, or any wine for that matter, by reading a book or reviewing magazine ratings. You need to sample. And there is no better time than the present.
Some Burgundy loyalists will be very upset with me for encouraging you to try the wines right now. That is because the 2005 vintage is so spectacular, that they do not want to share it with anyone who would not appreciate it. But, I disagree. One of the benefits of a tremendous vintage is that even the entry-level wines are good. Or even great! Surely, if you are trying something new, it helps to know that you do not need to break the bank to do so. Still, a bottle of “starter” or “regional” Burgundy from the ’05 vintage will run you upwards of $20.00-$30.00 depending on the vineyards and the producers. The cost is due partly to the strength of the Euro, and partly supply and demand. Burgundy wines are understandably becoming more popular, but the region is by far the smallest major wine-growing region in the world. French wine laws limit the yield of grapes per acre, which maintains the boutique status of the wines.
If you are completely unfamiliar with Burgundy, the good news is that you surely know of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which are the predominate grape varieties. The bad news is that you may have already formed a strong opinion on what you think of these grapes. Whether you think you love them or not, you need to try Burgundy with an open mind. The French style of Chardonnay allows the fruit in the grape to shine through, without being overpowered by the oak. The Pinot Noirs possess an elegance that is incomparable to any other Pinot Noir in the world. They offer the perfect balance of fruit and tannin. It is that delicate balance of velvet, and a certain mouthwatering freshness, that produce wines that are perfect to match with food.
You will often hear that these wines represent a true reflection of terroir, which is a conceptual French term, with no real English equivalent. The Burgundy Wine Company in New York City states it best. “Terroir encompasses all aspects of a vines growing environment, including soil, subsoil, altitude, position on a slope, sunlight hours and quality, rainfall, temperature, wind exposure and so on.” Because these characteristics are unique, and quite consistent year after year, Burgundian wines are a true expression of where they came from. Exploring the nuances of terroir, and the balance between power and subtlety, are what makes these wines so exciting.
Once you become a true connoisseur of Burgundy, you will want to collect Premier Cru wines, often abbreviated 1er Cru, which accounts for 11%. These wines generally offer more aging potential and have greater complexity. The top classification, and a mere 1% are Grand Cru Wines. These require some aging to express their full power, and are capable of aging for 20 years or more.
My suggestion is to start with a regional wine, such as a Bourgogne Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, or a district wine, such as Hautes Côtes de Beaune. This combined classification accounts for approximately 65% of the Burgundies produced. The next level, Village wines, make up about 23% and come from vineyards within the boundaries of a single village, such as Volnay, Gevrey-Chambertin and Chassagne-Montrachet. Many examples from both of these classifications are approachable and easily accessible. Try to find a 2005, but the 2006s that are starting to arrive in the country are also showing great promise.
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