Monday, January 23, 2012

Missing Napa!



An employee of mine, who might I add is quite an exceptional wine-o, decided to live in Napa Valley this winter. At first, I was so genuinely happy for him. However, with each passing day, I realize that I am simply green with envy. It's been WAY too long since my last visit. He gave me his address to google and I couldn't help but notice how close he is to Gott's Roadside. OK, now I realize that if I were to spend a winter in Napa, I would return to Nantucket at least 20 lbs heavier! Here is a flashback and a love-letter to my introduction to the Gott Brand several years ago. (Note that Gott's Roadside used to be named Taylor's Automatic Refresher.)

My friends and family were laughing at me when I returned from my first visit to Napa Valley.  Although I shared with them spectacular tales of my winery visits, I could not stop talking about Taylor’s Automatic Refresher.  Right smack on Main Street in St. Helena is this 1940s-style drive-in burger joint.  Here I was, on a mission to sink my teeth into the wine culture of Napa Valley, and returned full of milkshakes and onion rings.

Jump forward eight years or so and I am introduced to Joel Gott wines.  If you have not seen, tasted or heard of this brand yet, don’t worry.  You will soon enough. The wines are exceptional values and truly taking Massachusetts by storm.  I, personally, am always a bit skeptical when presented a new brand from California.  Especially if I hear that they are making multiple red and white wines.  Where is the quality control?  What corporation owns this?  How many billboards did they buy?  Is the Chardonnay just another California Oak Bomb? Not to be cynical, as there are extraordinary wines from California.  And, yes, wineries need to advertise and have nice labels, etc. But, at this price-point, I am a particularly tough judge. 

As I am tasting the Chardonnay and find it to be surprisingly lush and well-balanced yet not oaked at all, I am immediately impressed.  So, who is this Joel Gott anyway? Turns out, he is a Chef.  He makes hamburgers.  He owns this place in Napa called “Taylor’s.” 

I immediately decide that Joel Gott has a tremendous work ethic.  If he cares enough to have the best onion rings, (yes they are the best I’ve ever had) he must have made sure that the bottle with his name on it had good wine inside.  Turns out his wife, Sarah, is the one making sure.

After studying winemaking in college, Sarah Gott took a position as an oenologist at Joseph Phelps winery, where she spent a decade working for this renowned producer of “Insignia.”   She followed that was a stint at Quintessa before creating Joel Gott Wines, along with her husband. She has since nurtured Assistant Winemaker, Alisa Jacobson to take the head position. Sarah is also the consulting winemaker for Clif Family Winery and Blackbird Vineyards, whose Merlot has been decorated with critical acclaim and ratings as high as 98 points. 

Although Joel Gott Wines produce higher-end wines, such as the Gott 5 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) and the “Dillian Ranch” Zinfandel ($30), I am particularly impressed with their value wines, which to my definition are wines that retail for under $20.00. 

In addition to the Chardonnay already mentioned, the Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc is another clean, fresh, crisp white that is stainless steel fermented with no oak or malolactic fermentation. What I enjoy about both of these whites is that they don’t lose all complexity, which can be the case for inexpensive, unoaked wines.  There is fruit, lively acidity and interesting finish.
The Joel Gott Cabernet Sauvignon “815” is named for the date of the birth of their daughter.  To keep the cost down, the fruit is sourced from Paso Robles, Mendocino County and Lake County in addition to Napa Valley.  Sourcing from all of these terroirs ensures a diversity of flavors that give the wine more interest. Although it is dark in color, it reaches only a medium-body in weight and is clearly produced as a Cabernet to drink young, which can surely be appreciated in its own right.  Its ripe rich cherry fruits are complimented by just a touch of earthy mocha.

The red wine receiving tremendous buzz, especially in wine-making country, is the Joel Gott Zinfandel.  It has been called “the poor man’s Turley” because it is such a great value.  This Zinfandel is produced with dry-farmed old-vines.  Essentially that means that the vines struggle just enough to produce a rich, concentrated grape.  Using these grapes, then aging them for just the right amount of time in oak creates a wine that is deep, rich, structured and complex.  Certainly a crowd-pleaser for those who love Zinfandel.

It is evident that the Gott family aims to please, and certainly do so by using only the best ingredients and combining them with the best techniques, whether they are making wine…or milkshakes!

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